Fulbright Article 3
5-10-10
A “Victory Day” Timeline
It’s that time again, Ladies and Gentlemen! “Expat Student Publishing” and Moscow Kitty are back again, this time, with a recounting of the events leading up to and including the day of, “Victory Day” [День Победы - Den’ Pobedy] here in Russia!!
For anyone who is unawares, May 9th – aka, “Victory Day” – is the Russian celebration of the end of World War II – it is Victory in Europe (VE) Day. Some of you may be wondering why it is celebrated on May 9th here, instead of on May 8th, as it is marked in US Calendars. As it was related to me, we celebrate on different days because by the time the message announcing the war’s end came to Russia, the day had already changed, due to time zone differences.
Now that the introductory history is cleared up, let’s get on to the chronology, hmm? As an added bonus – as I’m feeling particularly playful today, owing to the events I’m about to relate, and because a friend of mine shared a particularly fascinating Science Fiction story with me the other day – this chronology is going to run something like a “ship’s log,” à la “Star Trek.” Have fun!
*****
Months Ago –
Event - Signs and billboards make their first appearance in the city, and (I assume) all over Russia. Common messages include:
“65 years of victory!” / “Thank you, Veterans!” / “Father, I remember…”
This is a small beginning: there are maybe one or two billboards, and a few posters around.
Reaction – “Wow, that’s really nice to see! We don’t have anything like that in the US for VE Day… We ought to think about that.”
About A Month Ago –
Event – One of my dance friends, Nastëna, invites me to go to the Dress Rehearsal of the Victory Day parade, on May 6th. The impression is given that this is something of a special occurrence, closely tied to her having connections that would allow us to attend this event.
Reaction – “Wow! That sounds fantastic! – You’ve got some connections, huh?”
Exuberance and insinuation about “connections” are dashed by the sudden realization that I am going to be in Sochi, almost up until Victory Day.
Interrogation about the date leads to the relief that I will be arriving in town the day before the Dress Rehearsal!
About A Week Ago –
Event – Signs, Posters, Wall Murals, and Billboards begin invading Moscow. They appear to be multiplying almost as fast as Tribbles.
Reactions – “Woah!” / “That’s a lot of signage!” / “Where are they all coming from?!” / “– Nevermind, must take pictures…” / “I get the feeling that this Victory Day thing is going to be rather epic…”
*****
Event – While in Sochi (a city in Southern Russia), our Director reminds us that we will have class the day after we return.
Reaction – “WHAT?! I have a parade to go tooooo!!!!!”
Half A Week Ago –
Event – If you blinked, where there was nothing the day before, there was suddenly a building-covering mural dedicated to Victory Day the next.
Reaction – “Wow.” / “Damn, son.” / “There is a LOT of Soviet Imagery floating around…”
The latter produces both a Pavlov-esque instinct of Fear – thank you, Cold War Propaganda and your propagated feelings of fear, mistrust, and confusion, which appear to have been neither controlled nor well-confronted, even to this day – as well as a certain sense of sorrow for both the veterans and citizens who fought this war for/as a country that doesn’t exist in the present day. Can you even imagine what that must feel like? To be a part of a nation that so much blood was spilled for, that suffered so much, and that sacrificed so much – only to have that nation, and your nationality therein, disappear one day in history?
*****
Event – The ribbons of St. George – black and orange ribbons that are associated with WWII remembrance [and military honors] – begin making their appearances.
They may be seen on: cars, peoples’ clothing, flag poles – and many other items – such as bottles of water!
Reaction –
“Aww… I really want a St. George ribbon…”
— Goes to the Grocery Store that day, for Water —
“Ooh!! That water has a St. George ribbon! I’m buying that one!”
May 6, 2010 –
Event – Victory Day Dress Rehearsal Parade
Location – Red Square; Moscow, Russia
Reaction – When I figure out the words to do it justice, there will be an entire report on this matter alone. Suffice it to say for now, that I attended an event that is by, “Invitation Only;” for which I was the first person, seemingly, in the history or our scholastic program to attend – even amongst the Russians! – and that it was a, “once in a life time” kind of event , to be in Red Square itself, for this event, as both a foreigner and as an American.
By way of facts, CNN.com’s article, “Western Troops Join Russia’s Victory Day Parade,” by, “the CNN Wire Staff,” reports that I witnessed more than 10,500 troops march in front of me, and that some portion of 120 aircraft flew over my head, on the day of the rehearsal.
That says nothing of the Tanks, Rockets, Missile Launchers, and the like that also rolled on in front of me.
I have seen this massive number of troops, aircraft, and “teknika” (Technical/Artillery) stretched out in front of me or flying over St. Basil’s Cathedral – all in the name of peace; in the name of remembering a truly awful War, that stopped a truly awful Force; and in the name of rejoicing for the Victory. At the end of it all, I heard Russian military bands playing Beethoven’s, “Ode To Joy” – which seemed to me a fitting send-off, as a final celebration of everything that was remembered that day, and maybe as a hope for the future. All of this – in Red Square.
I only grow more awestruck by the day.
May 9, 2010
Event – День Победы - Den’ Pobedy – Victory Day – The 65th Anniversary of the Victory on the European Front.
Reaction – “I think I’ll never be able to pass another V-E Day celebration in the US, because I’ll be too depressed at seeing nothing, knowing all of this is going on.” / “NO ONE is going to BELIEVE the Night I’ve had… = @_@ = ”
*****
9:30 AM – I get up; get excited to watch the Parade again – this time, on TV.
10:00 AM – I begin watching the Parade on TV and am pleasantly surprised to find that I understand more of the commentary than I thought I would. I am also pleased to find that the commentary helps to explain a few things Nastëna and I didn’t know while watching the dress rehearsal – namely, “What country does that flag belong to??” or, “What aircraft was that?”
11-Some-odd-ish AM – I start trying to work on my Fulbright Article, which I am well-aware is due on this day. I want to write about the Parade Dress Rehearsal – but an inability to properly harness and express the emotions hampers my efforts. Chatting with friends online completely destroys the remaining efforts.
An Afternoon Passes; Evening Comes
9:00 PM – I set out for Парк Победы (Park Pobedy – Victory Park), in order to watch the fireworks show I have heard about. – I smell the air, look at the clouds, and think, “This seems like a thunderstorm…” – But the Day has been gorgeous up to this point…
9:05 PM – 3 HUGE bolts of lighting later – I witness my first thunderstorm in Moscow! And I recognize that it’s probably not a good idea to walk out to the Park just yet…
9:06 PM – The fountain just above where I am standing turns on – and thanks to the high winds, goes quite insane. Water begins cascading down the steps nearby. I grab a quick video of it all.
9:07 PM – My cell phone battery dies, and I figure it will be better to wait out the storm at home, rather than in the crowded underpass, full of people who think it is a good idea to smoke in enclosed spaces.
9:45 PM – I hear a noise that sounds like bombs are going off, and deduce, “Hey, the fireworks have started!” – I grab my things and rush out.
9:50 PM – 10:05 PM – I catch the end of the fireworks – there were two shows going on at once – pretty nifty. Traffic in the streets is a bumper-to-bumper, gridlocked nightmare; worse than anything I’ve ever seen before – and that is saying something! A joyous feeling is in the air – and as cars honk their horns, and people cheer into the night, the feeling of Victory and Celebration is apparent.
10:06 PM – I start setting off for Park Pobedy; I said I was going to go, I see no reason not to fulfill the intention.
10:10 PM – I am distracted by live Accordion Music. (Truly, my greatest weakness.)
10:11 PM – I go to investigate the source of the Accordion Music, and discover a gathering of Russians, singing and dancing together, to the wonderful music of Accordion Man. (It must be said that a few of them appeared to have had at least a little bit to drink.)
10:12 PM – I realize that I’m going to be standing here, celebrating with this group for a while. I love accordion music too much. I sing when I can; watch the dancing; and enjoy the experience. The camaraderie and patriotism is heartwarming to see.
10:25 ish PM – An older woman, dressed partially in a uniform, lapel covered in metals, passes near the group – which all but rushes her, extolling her as a veteran, and asking what she wants played. She asks for a Waltz.
10:30 ish PM… - It was bound to happen eventually… As I love Viennese Waltz, and Accordion Music, Accordion Man sees how enamored I am of what he is playing, and begins trying to chat with me. – I manage to dodge this for a bit.
Sometime shortly after… - I can dodge no longer, and Accordion Man comes up and wants me to Sing to a certain song for them!! I protest that I don’t know the words – and another girl, Marina, comes up and tells me, “So, you’ll dance!!”
Thus, Marina and I dance together to the song! (Yay, Russian folk-ish dancing!)
I share with her that I am an American – she finds this very cool; and she tells me she is impressed with my dancing (Which I don’t think much of – we’re all just having fun at this point).
After That Song – Accordion Man tries to start speaking to me again. I must admit I have no idea what Accordion Man is saying to me. I apologize for not being fluent, because I’m a foreigner. (Also, I don’t think the fact that he’s had a little to drink already helps my case in understanding.)
They hear I am a foreigner, and they all want to know where I’m from.
They all get REALLY excited when they find out I’m from the US.
There is a renewed interest in me, and a bustle of activity follows, including the following events: them scrambling to find someone who speaks English (and then pestering him to translate things I do understand – namely, that I’m very pretty); them asking me what I want played; me telling them that this is their Victory Day, and is not about me (as an American)!!; and a quick rendition of “Old MacDonald” on the Accordion.
I wind up dancing with one of the older (middle-aged) gentlemen – who quickly becomes quite enamored of me. By the time the night is over, thanks to him, my hands have been covered in kisses, I have been picked up and whirled around (Thankfully, when he handed me off to his friend, his friend put me back down.), and declared to be both very beautiful, and, I quote, “The best woman in the world.” =o///o=
[Another Character – I met an honest-to-God member of the State Duma. (The Russian equivalent of our Congress in the US.) At least, that’s what he said, and that’s what the cover of his ID card said. (So provided it wasn’t a joke ID billet, he was with the Duma.) He was at the parade, on Red Square, today, and everything. (I asked.) (Only big government officials and veterans get tickets to go to the Parade on the day of, as far as I understand it.)
Is it ironic that his email is written in the front cover of my copy of, “The Count of Monte Cristo?” I am supposed to email him.
I think Accordion Man – Mikhail, as I later found out – is his dad? Or at least, a good friend.]
Isn’t That All? – It wouldn’t be me if it were!
The group of guys – including Mikhail, Duma Guy, and Far-Too-Enamored-With-Me-But-Inebriated Guy – want me to stay out with them, go have champagne, etc. I politely decline – they insist – I keep declining.
Mikhail doesn’t want to stop playing the accordion – his friends are trying to get him to go. I think that whatever he’s had to drink is starting to get to him.
Before we get him to leave, he plays one of my favorite Sambas, and launches into a round of “Hava Nagila” (Which, I do happen to know the words to, and thus sang, gladly.)
11:45 PM – I finally make it to Park Pobedy. I grab a few pictures of the Victory Day set-up. The festivities are over, so I don’t intend to stay long.
“… so I don’t intend to stay long.” = Famous Last Words
11:47 PM – I begin to leave the park – and fall in beside two Militsia men. I see them look at me; I smile, and wish them a happy holiday. They return the favor – and then start to chat with me.
11:48 PM – They find out I’m an American – they also get pretty excited.
Everyone is very excited to meet me tonight!
11:49 PM – Senior guy (Alexander) nudges younger guy (Alexei) to get my phone number.
11:50 PM – I give him my phone number. (It was easier than not doing so!)
11:51 PM – I am invited over to where the rest of their militsia squad is. The fact that I am an American is shared – I become pretty popular.
11:52 PM – Alexei asks if I want a flag – “Sure!” I say. He gives me a big flag, and three little ones!
11:53 PM – Having just received a flag, I hear someone say, “Devochka!” – and turn around, only to be handed ice cream by another Militsia guy!!
Keep track of this: I am standing in a GROUP OF MILITSIA GUYS, and they have given me Flags and Ice Cream!!
The Conversation Continues - Among the topics: they ask me what the Police in the US earn as a salary – not a bad question.
Then they ask me which country is better – the US, or Russia, as far as living, etc. What a question!!
I tell them some things in the US are better (But I still love Russia, too!). “Like what?” they ask. “Well… Internet access!” We laugh, and they say something to the effect of that the internet is just fine here – but when I tell them I live in an old, Soviet building, there is a collective, “Oh…!” and a hearty laugh.
Sometime shortly past Midnight – They invite me ONTO their bus.
So now, I am COMPLETELY surrounded by Militsia guys, IN one of their vehicles. – I can only think, <>
They introduce me to one of the fellows in the back area, telling me that he speaks English – that he works/worked as an interpreter. They prompt us to chat together, in English.
Sonya (his name), eventually prompts me to come sit next to him (i.e. – in the back compartment of the bus) – because, “I don’t want to yell.”
I learn that Sonya is also apparently fluent in Chinese, and had been stationed in China for at least a brief spell, working as an interpreter (between the Russians and Chinese).
I get the feeling that I had been sitting with “officers,” or the superiors beforehand – they had told me to sit where I was, and not go in the back compartment when I got on the bus. But then, well, I think it was all just so funny to them then, that they let me go sit back with the rest of the boys –who were, apparently, quite pleased at the whole situation.
Here, I should mention, that the moment I made an appearance on that bus, a LOT of slang and rough language started going around – none of which I understood, of course; but I’m quite sure that the majority of it had to do with yours truly. Ha ha, oh, Life.
Then, The Rules Kick In – Apparently, they aren’t actually allowed to drive a foreigner on their bus. So, I have to get out.
Once I alight, I hear one of the men say something about a goodbye kiss – I shout back, “I can’t possibly kiss you all!!”
And that is the end of that adventure. –Ish.
Around 12:30 AM – Alexei gets off of the bus with me, and we walk, on foot, back to where the Militsia office is.
On the way, as we pass through one of the tunnels, we both take a breath, and then begin to cough, and hack – my lungs felt as though someone had emptied a can of dust, in large particle form, into them!
It dawns on Alexei later – the thing that attacked our lungs was one of their non-lethal / crowd control weapons at the Militsia’s disposal! Some kind of spray/gas that makes it impossible to breath, and will make your eyes tear up/make it so you can’t see.
Apparently, someone must have been sprayed shortly before we got there. – So, we ran into what was left over from that.
Mark My Night So Far – I have sung and danced to live accordion music with a bunch of Russians; I have met a State Duma member; I have been dubbed, “The Best Woman In The World;” I have fallen in with a group of Militsia guys; the Militsia has given me flags and ice cream; I have been on a BUS full of Militsia guys; and now, apparently, I’ve been [inadvertently] gassed.
“Oh, what a night.”
1:00 AM ish - Alexei and I arrive at the Militsia office. I think some of the guys who are on the bus are surprised to still see me; some of the people there have no idea what I’m doing there.
Alexei disappears for a bit. I make some small chat; and recognize that there’s more slang going on that I don’t get.
1:10 AM ish – Alexei walks me back to the Coffee House where I intend to finish my Fulbright Article. (I still haven’t forgotten!) – He is still in uniform, and two Russian guys come up and ask to take a picture with him. They want me in the picture too.
As they walk away, I laugh and say, “I don’t think they realized that I’m not Russian…” – Alexei laughs and reminds me that he didn’t think I was a foreigner when he first saw me either.
Alexei asks if I will be at the Coffee House in another hour still. I say yes, probably, and Alexei says he will come to join me.
1:15 AM – I get inside the Café, and a group of guys starts trying to get my attention. One of them is apparently Chechen. He asks for my phone number. I don’t give it to him. (Not because he was Chechen – but I’d had enough attention for one night!! And because I didn’t like how he kept trying to distract my attention.)
1:16 AM – I call my Mother.
“Happy Mother’s Day – I was just with a whole group of Militsia! They gave me flags and ice cream!”
… face-palm … What a GREAT thing for an only daughter to tell her Mother. On Mother’s Day no less.
When I Hang Up The Phone – The thought occurs -- <>
It should be noted that the thoughts relating to, “How am I going to tell my parents about this?!” occurred as soon as the Militsia situation was unfolding; but I decided not to deal with them until the situation had played out, and I knew what, “the rest of the story,” would be that I would have to worry about relating.
2:15 AM ish – Alexei comes to meet me – and brings me a balloon. And buys more ice cream. – I am unsure what to make of my entire situation, as it is almost farcical to me now.
Don’t they tell us, “Stay away from the Militsia! You don’t want to mess with them!” – And yet, now I have hung out with a whole group of them, and they’ve given me presents! Flags, lots of ice cream, and a balloon, now!!
We chat for an hour or two – and then proceed to walk around and keep chatting.
5:00 AM – I walk back into the apartment – my host sister is still up. I relate to her EVERYTHING that has happened – and express my shock at the brunt of the action that took place between 10 PM and 1 AM. I cannot get over the combination of Militsia + Flags + Ice Cream + Balloons.
We get into a discussion about how the Militsia guy who gave me the ice cream cone in Park Pobedy called me “Devochka.” He wasn’t supposed to do that. “Devochka” is supposed to be for little girls – 13 ish and under. He should have said, “Devushka.” This is what my teacher said, at any rate.
I cross check with Polina – she says my teacher is right – he should have called me “Devushka.”
“But EVERYONE says, “Devochka” to me!!” I exclaim.
Polina then begins to tease me, saying, “Militsia only give ice cream to little girls! To 5 year olds! – You look like a 5 year old!!!!”
It’s probably true. I am, after all, standing there with a balloon four times as big as my head, grinning from ear to ear about accordion music; dancing and singing with a group of people in the streets; comically-enthralled Russian men; the Militsia, with their Flags, Ice Cream, Busses, and Balloons; and the prospect of having been lightly gassed.
5:30 AM – I call my Papa. “Before you say anything, 3 things: Everything is fine; No, I haven’t slept; Yes, it’s 5:30 AM!!!”
I think he is so shocked by tonight’s series of events that he can’t help but laugh about it with me.
6 AM – I finally go to bed. … For an hour… So that I can message my program director and group mate to make sure we don’t have class… -- Sorry for the 7:30 AM message, guys…
End Log
*****
May 9th, 2010 was my first Victory Day in Russia.
It was the first Victory Day I’ve ever really celebrated in my life.
I will NEVER forget this Victory Day.
This is “Expat Student Publishing,” and Moscow Kitty, wishing every reader a joyous V-E Day, no matter what day you celebrate it on, and hoping that you all have enjoyed this particular narrative – as completely off the wall and out of the ordinary as it may have been; which only proves, once again, that, “The Truth is stranger than Fiction.”
